Moose Z1100 Not Monitored Working w/ATT-Uverse VOID Digital Voice Line

[debbiejh]

   HELP PLEASE..   
I have a Moose Z1100 Home Security Alarm in my Home, and we went to AT&T Uverse Package that includes the Digital Phone Voice.  Well our Alarm has worked great for years, we aren't with any Monitored Service, for someones always home, and we arm it day and night.  After they installed the ATT Uverse, our Moose Alarm will set, but it doesn't go off when any of the doors are opened nor a window raised now, just as if we Didn't have it Armed At All.  HELP Please  We told ATT about it, and that when we had the regular phone line, we had no problems, but since they installed the digital voice, it quit working.  They sent a tech back out and he said he couldn't see why it wouldn't work, and had nothing to do with what they did.   HELP ME Please
thank you,
Debbie

[cogentblue]

Hi
This is strange and I would have to agree with the phone company that everything they did should not have caused this problem. I would expect a communication failure "if" it was monitored.

Can I get some more info?

1. do you get the ready (green) light and does it go out if you open a door or window when not armed?

2. can you put it in the monitor mode and see if the keypad beeps when opening a door or window?

you can turn on monitor mode by putting the code in starting it with a 6 rather than a 1 
(example: code is 1897 to arm use 6897 to turn on/off monitor mode)

3. Does the red light start flashing when its armed and you open a window?

I'm thinking you might have a blown fuse for the siren.

Robert

[dilligaff]

The problem that I have run into when someone switches to U verse happens if the panel uses pulse dialing. AT&T U verse will not recognize pulse dialing.

[DEL Installations]

The first reply is what I agree with. Further troubleshooting on the alarm side is necessary.

In theory, nothing ATT did should affect the alarm's operation, with the exception of the panel being able to dial out, which is of no consequence in this case.

[debbiejh]

Hi
This is strange and I would have to agree with the phone company that everything they did should not have caused this problem. I would expect a communication failure "if" it was monitored.

Can I get some more info?

1. do you get the ready (green) light and does it go out if you open a door or window when not armed?

2. can you put it in the monitor mode and see if the keypad beeps when opening a door or window?

you can turn on monitor mode by putting the code in starting it with a 6 rather than a 1  
(example: code is 1897 to arm use 6897 to turn on/off monitor mode)

3. Does the red light start flashing when its armed and you open a window?

I'm thinking you might have a blown fuse for the siren.

Robert

First of all Thank You So Much for your Help Everyone.
Anwers to your Questions:

1. YES   I do get the Ready Green Light and it does go out when a door or window is opened.

2. YES  I put in the Monitor Mode as you said how to do above, and it Did Beep when I Opened a Door or Window.

3. NO  The Red Light just Stays ON, and Doesn't Flash at all when I open a window or door.

I hope this helps to figure out more of whats wrong.   Once again any and all help is so much appreciated.
Debbie

Edit:

Also wanted to say on # 1 Question and Answer, When the Green Light does go out when opening a door or window, it doesn't Beep or do anything other than the green light going out.  We have a Garage Entry Door that on a delay, and even when we open that door, it doesn't do the delay Beeps either anymore, and the other doors and window doesn't make the Siren go off at all.  It's as if theres no Alarm Set.  Thanks again for your help

[cogentblue]

OK
Lets try something else.
push and hold the # * (pound and asterisk) at the same time, this is the panic button. See if that activates the siren, you can also try 1 and 7 that is the fire panic button (if its programed for that) pushing your arm/disarm code will silence it.

I have seen this panel's program get scrambled from a power outage hopefully this didn't happen.

just for kicks try cycling the power to reset the panel. You can do this by flipping the black switch off wait 15 seconds then back on, its located under the red light on the main control panel in the lower left corner.

[Airdorn]

Usually when I run into this problem, I find that the alarm has in fact not been working fine for a long time but the home owner only discovered something was wrong because they ran a test after some work was done... like, after the ATT guy left.

But assuming something did happen after the U-Verse install, I would suspect that some phone wiring is in the panel and the ATT guy might have accidentally broken a wire in the panel having to do with the sirens.

[debbiejh]

OK
Lets try something else.
push and hold the # * (pound and asterisk) at the same time, this is the panic button. See if that activates the siren, you can also try 1 and 7 that is the fire panic button (if its programed for that) pushing your arm/disarm code will silence it.

I have seen this panel's program get scrambled from a power outage hopefully this didn't happen.

just for kicks try cycling the power to reset the panel. You can do this by flipping the black switch off wait 15 seconds then back on, its located under the red light on the main control panel in the lower left corner.

Ok I did do what you asked above, and thanks for your help again!

1.  I did Push and Hold Down the # and * together, and  YES the Siren    did go off.

2.  I did the Reset Panel Cycling for 15-20 seconds, and it powered off and back on.   
 
While still not being Monitored, and when we ARM the Alarm and once the delaid beeps go off for exiting home and it 's armed.  Then I Open any Door or Window, and it's as if Nothing was Opened.  No Beeps, No Siren, No Change on Keypad Lights. Still shows to be ARMED(red Light Steady) and Other 3 Green Lights Lit.  Just as if we didn't Open Anything!
Also Used Meter to Test all 4 fuses in Panel and they are good.

The only time it seemed to reconize that a window or door was open with beeps only was when I put it in the Monitored Mode you had me do a check with using the 6 in front of arming code than the 1. 

[cogentblue]

At this point as a technician I would default the panel and reprogram the entire thing. The programming on this panel is an old format using binary numbers to get the needed values and to indicate what is programed in each location.
it was always a difficult task for many techs back in the day and the newer younger techs of today have no idea.

I don't know your capabilities I would hate to provide you with a manual and then have you get VERY frustrated. The process is to long to put in a message or email,  You might want to try and find a company or service tech to do this.

What city do you live in? Let me think I have not given up on you yet!

[debbiejh]

I live in Houston, and Thank for not giving up on me!!  During this time of the year it so important to get our alarm up and working again.  There has been so many daytime break ins all around Houston, more so now and in the pass few months.  Once again, I really appreciate your time and any help.

[cogentblue]

If your willing to try some programming I think the only way to do this would be to set up a time to make a phone call and I can walk you through it. I live in Los Angeles and we are on Pacific time so you are 2 hours ahead of me.

You will need:
A cell or cordless phone so you can walk back and forth to the panel and keypad.

the zone list, there are 8 zones I will need to know if they are doors and if they are entry/exit, windows, motions, glass break sensors, floor mats, smoke or heat detectors, panic buttons etc.

Don't put all that info on this page and I can send you my phone # in a private message.

You will be able to change the code on your own so only you know it.

My schedule is full this week but I am suppose to get off at noon on Friday (2:00 your time) That's if there isn't any emergency service calls, or maybe on Saturday.

Let me know and keep in mind this is a very old system and the company is long gone no one supports this equipment any more and like all electronics it's life just might be over.

Robert

[Old EW Tech]

At this point, I would default the system and see if it corrects the issue.

The applicable factory procedure can be found in Section 2.9.5 on page 9 in the Installation Manual.  If you do not have a manual, you can download one from the forum’s Moose Manuals Downloads Section (link in left column).

Also, see the following Moose FAQ for the location of the Power and Programming Switches:

Where are the Power and Programming Switches located on the Z1100?
 
The following step-by-step procedure will default the Z1100:   
 

• If not already off, turn the power OFF by sliding the Power Switch (Figure 1 WHITE ARROW) down to the OFF position.

 

• CLOSE the Program Switch (Figure 1 RED ARROW) by gently depressing (pushing towards the printed circuit board) the Hairpin Contact and gently apply downward pressure towards the direction of the hook so the Hairpin latches under the hook when released (Figures 1 and 2).

 

• Turn the Power Switch ON by sliding it UP.  The Red Power LED will illuminate and the keypad will beep 4 times.  NONE of the keypad lights will be illuminated.

 

• Enter 0, the keypad will beep 3 times, all lights remain OFF.

 

• Enter 0, 0, 9, the keypad will beep 3 times.

 

• Enter 2, 5, 5, the keypad beeps 5 times and ALL keypad lights will come ON.

 

• Enter *, the keypad makes 1 long beep and the Power, Ready, Interior On and Delay On lights will come ON.

 

• Turn the Power Switch OFF.

 

• OPEN the Program Switch.

 

• Turn the Power Switch back ON.

The system has been returned to Factory Default Programming.  User Authorization Code 1 is 245 (arm/disarm with 1245) and the Program Authorization Code is 98765.

At this point you should be able to determine if the default has resolved the issue.
 
Remember, all programming, including Zone Types, has been returned to the original factory settings.  It will probably be necessary to reprogram at least some the Zone Types to make the system "fit" your specific installation. 

If you provide a list of what sensors are located on each of your zones, we can assist with the zone programming.

Let us know.

[debbiejh]

Thanks Robert,  Sorry I'm just getting back to your post below, with all the Holidays getting through them all, I hadn't had the time to get back to you sooner.   
YES, I would like to be able to get with you on the phone and we can go through all this to see if it will work.  If you still can send me your number and a time to call you I would really appreciate it alot.  I will have my husband get on the phone with you and let you two do this process you are speaking of if thats ok. 
Please let me know, and thank you again for all you have helped me with so far.
Debbie

If your willing to try some programming I think the only way to do this would be to set up a time to make a phone call and I can walk you through it. I live in Los Angeles and we are on Pacific time so you are 2 hours ahead of me.

You will need:
A cell or cordless phone so you can walk back and forth to the panel and keypad.

the zone list, there are 8 zones I will need to know if they are doors and if they are entry/exit, windows, motions, glass break sensors, floor mats, smoke or heat detectors, panic buttons etc.

Don't put all that info on this page and I can send you my phone # in a private message.

You will be able to change the code on your own so only you know it.

My schedule is full this week but I am suppose to get off at noon on Friday (2:00 your time) That's if there isn't any emergency service calls, or maybe on Saturday.

Let me know and keep in mind this is a very old system and the company is long gone no one supports this equipment any more and like all electronics it's life just might be over.

Robert

[cogentblue]

Hi
I have been busy with work and just now checked my email I am available today off and on if we can connect.

[debbiejh]

Hi
I have been busy with work and just now checked my email I am available today off and on if we can connect.

Robert, you are the BEST!  Thank You so so much for your time and all your efforts on-line here, and on the phone, trying to help us get our alarm system back up and working again.  Doing the Defaulting did the trick as you suggested.
It's great people like yourself that take the time and efforts to help others, and it's very rare these days in this crazy world.
May God Bless you and your Family, for another good deed done for a complete stranger like myself!
Can't say Thank You Enough times!!   
Debbie & Glen