Best sensor/trigger

[Jazzyjim]

What might be the "best" sensor/trigger for double-hung house windows & basement windows?  Used to have foil (mini) on the windows, but I can no longer locate a source for mini foil to make repairs and/or foil newly installed windows.  Any ideas?

[Security101]

Of course contacts and glass mounted shock sensors like GRI GB-550, or Ademco/Honeywell ASC-SS1 work just fine.

Contacts and a glassbreak sensor like Ademco/Honeywell FG-1625 (which will cover all the glass in a room) will also work...

You can also use these on basement vent windows, GRI's WT-01 Wire Trip Switch

Jim

[Jazzyjim]

Thank you.  I cannot help but wonder if the trip is simillar to what we used to use (a wire stretched across the window, or stapled to it, with spring loaded contacts that break the circut if pulled out).  I suppose I should step into the new generation and use glass break sensors.  It's hard to shake the old habits, window foil lets "them" know the place is alarmed so they don't have to break a door or window in order to hear the alarm sound.  Also, I am looking for the loudest siren, by today's standards, for outside alert.  Thanks again.

[Security101]

A trip or trap wire type is exactly that...

Today stickers let them know or the shock sensors as described.

GE/Sentrol also make some taut wire traps, some metal or plastic bars etc for covering windows.

I like the MPI-11 siren driver driving the max 4 ohm load with a couple MPI-30's (also GE product now)

Jim

[Jazzyjim]

Thanks again, Jim.  For the basement I believe the trips on the windows will work fine.  And perhaps a good motion detector on the cellar steps, where there are no heating pipes.  As for the glass break detectors, do they require a "control" panel between the sensor and alarm panel?  Or are they independent triggers?  I like your selection for a siren.  I have to go up and see what driver I had installed back in 1980.  It was quite loud driving 2 large speakers.  Personally, I am not a big believer in stickers, because sooo many non-alarmed home owners purchase decals to bluff a possible bugular.  I always liked the message sent via professionally installed mini-foil for homes and standard foil for stores.  Any ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim

[Security101]

As for the glass break detectors, do they require a "control" panel between the sensor and alarm panel?

No...

Jim

[Jazzyjim]

Yhanks, that makes things much easier.  With an average size room, will one sensor monitor all the windows?  (Say a 12' x 12' room.)  Are ther any panels that can be programed by the installer (me) without external equipment?  I like, or used to like, Ademco and Napco because they were sturdy and reliable.  Today?

[Security101]

Yes, the average room. They will listen to all the glass it can hear (line of site) from the detector within around 25' with no barriers (can not hear through glass, walls, doors, some curtains, etc)

I would recommend Ademco (IMO), and read the forum here for programming and etc.

Jim

[Jazzyjim]

Thank you.  He is a question that has always tossed me a curve ball.  How does one decide just how "size" the battery for the panel?  I mean after taking into consideration the draw from keypads, smoke detectors, sirens ect?  One feature I liked about the old Napco panels was that I could put the window foil one one zone, which would time-out per local laws, but put another sensor or two on a re-setting zone that would re-arm after timing-out,  I suppose today's programable panels can do whatever it is programed to do.

[Security101]

Battery, a 4ah battery is minimum and can be expected to provide 4 hr's stand by with a properly regulated panel - a 7ah = 7hrs - 2 7ah's = 14.

Standard panels today will by default let all zones reset after timeout, but you can control how many times they report in a single armed period.

Jim

[ecrist]

Battery, a 4ah battery is minimum and can be expected to provide 4 hr's stand by with a properly regulated panel - a 7ah = 7hrs - 2 7ah's = 14.

Standard panels today will by default let all zones reset after timeout, but you can control how many times they report in a single armed period.

Jim

These figures assume the panel and add-ons are pulling 1 amp at 12 volts.  The only way to tell for certain is to pull the AC, and measure the current draw from the battery.  This will give you an idea of how long the battery will last.  

This being said, measuring the Ademco Vista-20p in my home with 3 Aurora PIRs, 7 door contacts, two keypads and an Ademco 7847i Internet Communicator, I measure 0.1A at 12VDC in a disarmed state.  I have a 7AH battery installed, which will get me about 70 hours, give for take.  Realistically, I install the 7AH battery in all my client's homes, which will give them more than two days on battery; enough time for myself or another tech to come out and service a bad transformer.

[Security101]

These figures assume the panel and add-ons are pulling 1 amp at 12 volts.  The only way to tell for certain is to pull the AC, and measure the current draw from the battery.  This will give you an idea of how long the battery will last. 

That is correct and the best way to check the minimum draw on the system. You would also want to check it while armed and again when in alarm as this will be considerably higher.

The system should  be able to handle 4 hours armed in stand by and then after that a minimum of 4 minutes in alarm without issues - you can test this.

I'm not sure why you're only seeing 100ma on your system ecrist as the devices are rated higher than that in standby and that's not including the panel itself... hmmm...

I too am a believer in using a 7-8 ah battery even in basic home systems - you cant get to much battery (up to 17ah that is).

Jim